Terrariums

A guide to introducing a new tarantula into an existing terrarium.

Adding a new tarantula to your terrarium needs careful planning. This ensures a smooth transition for the spider. By following the right steps, you can make a new tarantula feel at home in your setup. This guide will help you through the steps to add a new tarantula, from setting up the space to watching the spider’s behavior.

Whether it’s a Texas Brown Tarantula, a Mexican Redknee Tarantula, or a Mexican Fireleg Tarantula, the steps are the same. Understanding what your new tarantula needs helps create a welcoming space for it to live.

This guide covers everything from temperature and humidity to hiding spots and cover. We’ll talk about why it’s important to quarantine the new spider and how to slowly introduce it to its new home. By following these tips, you can make sure your new tarantula settles in well.

Preparing the Existing Terrarium Environment

Before adding a new tarantula to your terrarium, make sure the environment is ready. This means keeping the right tarantula habitat conditions. You need to keep the tarantula temperature and humidity right, and make sure there are enough tarantula hiding spots and cover. Tarantulas don’t like big changes, so a stable and good tarantula terrarium setup is key for their health.

Maintaining Proper Temperature and Humidity Levels

Keeping the right tarantula environmental conditions is key for your tarantula’s health. Try to keep the terrarium’s temperature between 72-84°F. The humidity should be 60-80%. Use a thermometer and hygrometer to check and adjust these levels as needed.

It’s good to have a temperature gradient in the terrarium. This means a cooler spot and a warmer spot. This lets the tarantula control its body temperature.

Ensuring Adequate Hiding Spots and Cover

Tarantulas like to hide a lot. So, make sure your terrarium has lots of tarantula hiding spots and cover. Use things like cork bark, rocks, and fake plants for hiding places. These spots should be big enough for the tarantula to fully hide in, making it feel safe.

Habitat Requirement Recommended Range
Temperature 72-84°F
Humidity 60-80%
Hiding Spots Ample, with large enough cover

tarantula terrarium setup

Quarantining the New Tarantula

Before adding a new tarantula to your terrarium, it’s key to quarantine it first. This step lets you check the tarantula’s health and make sure it doesn’t bring diseases or parasites to your setup. It also helps the tarantula get used to its new home slowly, which lowers stress and risks.

While in quarantine, closely examine the new tarantula for any signs of sickness. Look for signs like poor nutrition, dehydration, or parasites. Watch how it eats and acts to spot any odd behaviors. This careful check-up helps spot and fix any problems before moving it to your main terrarium, preventing cross-contamination and keeping your tarantulas healthy.

Usually, you should keep a new tarantula in quarantine for 30-60 days. This depends on the species and its health. Keep it in a special enclosure that matches the species’ needs for temperature and humidity. This setup lets the tarantula adjust to its new home without stress from other tarantulas or diseases.

Following a strict tarantula quarantine plan helps your new tarantula settle in well. It keeps your whole tarantula collection healthy and happy.

tarantula quarantine

Origin Description Implications
WC (Wild Caught) Reptiles labeled as WC are captured from the wild for the pet trade. This practice helps establish stable captive populations and diversify bloodlines.
CB (Captive Bred) Reptiles labeled as CB are born from captive parents. They are more used to human interaction and likely to adjust well to captivity.
CBB (Captive Bred and Born) Some breeders label their animals as CBB to indicate they are both Captive Bred and Born.
Captive Farmed These reptiles are bred and raised on farms designed for mass breeding for the pet trade. Quality varies, and welfare can range from suboptimal to poor, analogous to the concept of “puppy mills.”
Captive Hatched Reptiles that are Captive Hatched come from wild-caught mothers that give birth or lay eggs in captivity or from eggs harvested from the wild and hatched in captivity.

It’s vital to buy from trusted breeders to support the industry and the animals’ welfare. Don’t just take the seller’s word for it; verify the reptile’s origin before you buy. Different origins (WC, CB, CBB, Captive Farmed, Captive Hatched) affect the reptile’s behavior, adaptation, and care needs.

Introducing New Tarantulas to the Terrarium

Adding a new tarantula to a terrarium needs a careful, step-by-step approach. This helps reduce stress and makes sure the tarantula settles in well. The tarantula introduction process means slowly introducing the spider to its new space. It also means giving it places to hide and watching how it behaves.

Gradual Acclimation Techniques

Start by putting the new tarantula’s box inside the terrarium. This lets the two spaces share air and temperature. This way, the tarantula gets used to the new place without feeling overwhelmed.

Over a few days, increase how long the new box is inside the terrarium. This lets the tarantula get used to the new sights, sounds, and smells.

cleaning and maintaining the terariumHow to Clean and Maintain Your Tarantula’s Habitat

Monitoring Tarantula Behavior During Introduction

Keep an eye on how the tarantula acts during this time. Look for signs of stress like moving a lot, not eating, or being aggressive with others. If the tarantula seems stressed, slow down the process or wait until it seems more calm.

Being patient and using a slow tarantula acclimation method helps reduce stress. This makes it more likely for the tarantulas to live together well.

By taking these steps and watching the tarantulas, you can make a peaceful home for both your new and old tarantulas. This lets them live well together in their terrarium.

Safe Tarantula Handling and Transportation

Handling and moving a tarantula needs careful steps to keep both the spider and the person safe. Using a cup or container for catching and moving helps reduce stress and prevents injury. Always be very careful when handling tarantulas to avoid hurting them.

Proper Tarantula Catching and Transferring Methods

For safe tarantula handling, move slowly and carefully. Start by gently guiding the tarantula into a strong container like a clear plastic cup or terrarium. Use a thin object, like cardboard, to slide under the tarantula and into the container. Never grab or pick up the tarantula directly, as this can stress and hurt it.

When transporting tarantulas, make sure the container is closed but has air holes. Put a soft material like paper towels on the bottom for the tarantula to grip. The container should be big enough for the tarantula to move but not too big, which can cause stress.

Tarantula catching techniques and transfer methods need patience and care. With the right steps, you can safely add a new tarantula to a terrarium or move it to a new home.

Technique Description Advantages Disadvantages
Cup and Slide Gently coax the tarantula into a clear plastic cup or container, then slide a piece of cardboard under the container to transfer the tarantula.
  • Minimizes direct handling
  • Provides a secure and controlled environment
  • Allows for easy observation during transport
  • Requires practice and patience
  • Tarantula may be stressed by the transfer
Gloved Handling Wear thick, protective gloves to gently grasp the tarantula and transfer it to a new enclosure.
  • Increased risk of injury or stress to the tarantula
  • Requires caution to avoid squeezing or dropping the tarantula

By using safe tarantula handling and tarantula transfer methods, you can keep your tarantulas safe during moves and changes.

Establishing Separate Enclosures for Multiple Tarantulas

If you plan to keep multiple tarantulas, it’s key to give each one its own space. Tarantulas can be territorial and may fight with each other, especially when they first meet. Keeping them in separate enclosures can stop these fights and keep them safe.

Here are the main reasons why separate enclosures are good:

  1. They reduce the chance of fights and injuries between the spiders.
  2. They let you adjust the environment to fit the needs of each species or spider.
  3. They make feeding and watching over the tarantulas easier, since you can focus on one at a time.
  4. They cut down on stress and give each spider a safe, personal space to live.

Think about these things when setting up separate homes for your tarantulas:

  • Enclosure size: Make sure each home is big enough for the tarantula’s adult size.
  • Substrate and decor: Pick materials that mimic their natural home and offer places to hide.
  • Temperature and humidity: Keep the right temperature and humidity for each species, which might differ.
  • Ventilation: Good airflow is key to avoid harmful gases and keep the environment healthy.

By giving your tarantulas their own spaces, you make a peaceful place for them to live and act naturally. This way, you help your pets stay happy and healthy. It also makes caring for them easier.

Understanding Tarantula Territorial Behavior

Tarantulas often show territorial behaviors when a new arachnid joins their home in a terrarium. It’s important to know the signs of tarantula aggression and tarantula territoriality. This knowledge helps in making sure new tarantulas fit in well.

Signs of Aggression and Territoriality

When a tarantula feels threatened or defends its territory, it shows certain behaviors. These behaviors mean it’s being territorial. Look out for:

  • Flicking of the hairs on its body
  • Raising its front legs in a defensive stance
  • Sudden, aggressive movements towards the threat

Knowing these tarantula territorial behavior signs helps you understand the situation. You can then take steps to prevent fights between tarantulas.

Behavior Meaning
Flicking of Hairs Shows the tarantula is threatened and ready to defend its space.
Raised Front Legs A defensive stance, meaning the tarantula is ready to attack if needed.
Sudden Movements Aggressive actions towards something seen as an intruder in its territory.

Understanding signs of tarantula aggression and territoriality helps in introducing new tarantulas smoothly. This keeps the terrarium peaceful.

Providing Appropriate Housing and Substrate

It’s key to give your tarantula the right home and bedding for its health. The terrarium should have enough room, places to hide, and a substrate that feels like its natural home. Choosing the best materials and arranging the enclosure right helps keep your tarantula happy and healthy.

substrates for the tarantula terrariumThe best substrates for the tarantula terrarium

When looking at tarantula housing requirements, the tank size depends on the type of tarantula. For instance, the Mexican Fireleg Tarantula needs a tank of at least 10 gallons. The Texas Brown Tarantula is happy in a 5-10 gallon tank. Having enough space lets the tarantula move, burrow, and act naturally.

For suitable tarantula substrates, a mix of coconut fiber and peat moss works well, with 2-3 inches deep. This setup imitates the tarantula’s natural ground and keeps the right humidity. Also, the substrate should be cleaned and changed often to keep the environment healthy.

To make a natural habitat for tarantulas, add things like cork bark, rocks, or fake plants. These give the tarantula places to hide and make the terrarium look nice. Make sure the hiding spots are big enough for the tarantula to easily move in and out.

Thinking about what your tarantula needs for its home, picking the right bedding, and making a natural setting are key. Doing this helps your tarantula live well in captivity and act naturally. Taking care of your tarantula’s needs is important for a great pet experience.

Feeding and Watering Requirements

Feeding and watering your tarantula right is key to their health. Tarantulas eat meat and need different sized food to stay healthy. They also need clean, fresh water to drink.

Suitable Prey Items and Feeding Schedules

For tarantula food, offer a mix of prey that fits their size and type. Good food choices include:

  • Crickets
  • Mealworms
  • Waxworms
  • Roaches
  • Small rodents (for larger tarantulas)

How often you feed depends on the tarantula’s age, size, and type. Adults usually eat once or twice a week. Young tarantulas might need to eat more often. Always take out any food they don’t eat to keep their home clean.

Tarantula Species Feeding Schedule Prey Size
Texas Brown Tarantula 1-2 times per week Appropriately sized crickets or roaches
Curly Hair Tarantula 1 time per week Smaller insects like mealworms or small crickets
Poecilotheria Metallica 2 times per week Larger insects or small rodents

Watch how much and how often your tarantula eats. Adjust as needed to keep them healthy and happy.

Tarantula Water Requirements

Tarantulas also need clean, fresh water. Put a shallow dish or mister in their home. Change the water often and keep it clean. Some tarantulas like a light misting to keep the air moist.

Tarantula Health and Care Considerations

Keeping your tarantula healthy is key for its well-being. Learn the signs of illness, common diseases, and the best care practices. This way, you can quickly spot and fix any health issues, keeping your tarantula happy and healthy.

Knowing how to spot illness in your tarantula is important. Look out for signs like being very tired, not eating, molting issues, and odd behavior. These signs can mean your tarantula is sick, so watch for them closely.

It’s also vital to know about common tarantula diseases. Issues like breathing problems, fungal infections, and stomach issues can harm your tarantula. Learn about these diseases and take steps to prevent them to help your tarantula live a long, healthy life.

Following the best care practices is crucial for your tarantula’s health. Make sure the temperature and humidity are right, provide hiding spots, and feed it the right food. These steps help your tarantula live its best life.

By being alert, knowing the signs of illness, and caring for your tarantula right, you can keep it healthy and happy. Taking a proactive approach to your tarantula’s health really makes a difference in its life.

Tarantulas in xerophilous environments show how these creatures adapt and survive. This knowledge can help you better understand their health and care needs.

Tarantula Characteristic Details
Size 4.5 to 5.5 inches
Weight 2 to 3 ounces
Lifespan in the Wild Male – up to 5 years, Female – up to 20 years
Lifespan in Captivity Male – up to 5 years, Female – up to 20 years
Mating Gestation Period 6 to 7 weeks
Egg-laying Capacity 100 to over 500 eggs annually

Spider Terrarium Setup and Decor

Setting up a tarantula terrarium is fun and rewarding. It’s important to make a space that feels natural and comfy for your pet. Focus on tarantula terrarium setup and decorating tarantula enclosures to match their natural homes. This way, you help your pet stay happy and healthy.

Start by picking an enclosure that’s big enough for your tarantula to move around. Add things like branches, rocks, and places to hide to make it look good and interesting. Put these items in a way that lets your tarantula climb, explore, and dig.

Síndrome discinético Cría de Ceratogyrus marshalli con SD. Esta es una rara afección que cada vez es más frecuente encontrar, aunque poco se sabe de ella todavía. Es una enfermedad congénita, de posible origen metabólico, que afecta a la química nerviosa y al sistema motor. Es posible que un porcentaje de las crías nazcan con esta afección, que en la naturaleza morirán sin remedio. En un principio podríamos no detectarla, pues está latente, pero es posible que algún tipo de suceso traumático (un transporte, un cambio de terrario, etc.) dispare el trastorno. También se habla de que no es una enfermedad si no un sintoma derivado de otras posibles afecciones. Incluso se debate mucho la teoria de que pueda provocarse por alimento en mal estado, bien sea enfermo o portador de algún producto quimico que a ellos no les afecta, pero si a nuestras tarántulas. Cómo reconocerlo Será fácilmente identificable, puesto que veremos moverse de manera errática y descontrolada a nuestra tarántula, caminará moviendo todas las patas, yendo hacia delante y hacia atrás, colocándose en posturas extrañas. Posiblemente dejará de comer, y dejará de hacer otras actividades habituales, como salir a buscar comida, tejer, etc… Tratamiento A día de hoy, dado que apenas se sabe nada de esta enfermedad, no tenemos conocimiento de cura alguna. Cuando los síntomas de nuestra tarántula sean muy evidentes y veamos que está sufriendo, lo mejor que podemos hacer por ella (y por nosotros) es meterla unos minutos al congelador para que muera tranquila. Pero cuidado!, porque si los sintomas no son muy severos la tarántula puede recuperarse, tengo un ejemplar con DS que no ha muerto y ha mejorado poco a poco, cuando tenia 2 cm, los sintomas eran severos, ahora es una hembra subadulta y apenas se le nota, este caso es una excepción, pues como hemos dicho suelen morir la mayoria de ejemplares. Nota: Hay un posible tratamiento alternativo, consiste en aportar calor extremo al animal, llegando a los 50ºC, por la noche la dejamos descansar a 24ºC y por el dia volvemos con la hipertermia. Según la persona que provó el tratamiento su ejemplar se recuperó, pero yo estoy convencido que su caso fue una de las excepciones en que el ejemplar huebiera vivido igualmente sin ayuda del tratamiento, de la misma manera que ha sucedido con mi ejemplar. De todas formas aquí tenéis el tratamiento por si acaso. Larvas de Fóridos FóridosTipos de mosca que habitan los terrarios. Los fóridos son una especie de mosca tipo Drosophyla cuyas larvas, carnívoras, atacan cualquier organismo que haya en las proximidades. A menudo son consecuencia de comprar grillos en malas condiciones de hijiene, o cualquier tipo de alimento vivo o restos que queden en el terrario. Después de que los fóridos hayan efectuado su puesta en el terrario, sus larvas, cuando nazcan, devorarán cualquier organismo vivo que encuentren que no pueda defenderse, como una tarántula en hibernación, o previamente enferma, o proxima a mudar o con la muda muy reciente. También tienen preferencia por atacar las ootecas. En unas horas acabarán con nuestra tarántula, devorándola de dentro hacia afuera. Los síntomas no se presentan, simplemente tienen una consecuencia directa, la muerte. Cómo reconocerlo Moscas purulando por el terrario y por la estancia, son unas moscas muy características, similares a D. hidei pero con la joroba más pronunciada, y se mueven muy rápidamente, dando pequeñas carreras, saltitos y vuelos para evitar ser cazadas. larvas sospechosas, el animal a muerto y encuentras dichas larvas en él. Tratamiento El mejor tratamiento es la prevención. No comprar alimento si hay la más mínima evidencia de falta de hijiene o grillos muertos con larvas, tener nuestros criaderos lo más pulcros posibles, retirar cadáveres de nuestros terrarios imediatamente, eliminar cualquier mosquita o larva sospechosa de nuestro terrario. También pueden venir bien métodos contra las moscas adultas, como cintas adhesivas atrayentes, o matamoscas. Traumas: golpes y heridas Patas arrancadasAntes) P. reduncus con tres patas arrancadas. Es más o menos habitual que una tarántula se pueda golpear o caer y hacerse daño. Los traumas externos suelen ser habituales en mayor o menor gravedad. Cualquier herida que exponga el interior de la tarántula, o que produzca un sangrado, se tratará como un trauma. Cómo reconocerlo Una herida en una articulación, por un golpe o caída, podemos ver una cierta pérdida de hemolinfa. Heridas en el abdomen, la parte más expuesta de una tarántula. Veremos un agujero abierto, o un desgarro del que emana hemolinfa en mayor o menor medida. Señalar que es el peor lugar donde puede dañarse nuestra araña, si es una caída dura o una herida profunda en el dorso del abdomen, puede no tener remedio, pues es donde está el corazón de la tarántula. Apéndices arrancados, generalmente patas o pedipalpos, aunque a veces también pierden un colmillo o incluso los dos por malas mudas. Golpes y aplastamientos. Tratamiento Patas arrancadasDespués) ejemplar tras la muda, con patas regeneradas. El modo de proceder dependerá principalmente del tipo de herida y dónde esté localizada. Hemolinfa en articulaciones De tratarse de una herida leve en articulación, expulsando una gota de hemolinfa y sin llegar a más, no se actuará, pues la herida se curará por sí sola, y apenas afectará a la actividad normal de nuestra araña. En caso de sangrar abundantemente debemos decidir si proceder de una forma más drástica arrancando o no esa pata: una extremidad rota, sangrando abundantemente no parará de hacerlo por si sola debido al tipo de sistema circulatorio de nuestra araña. Aún en caso de llegar a parar, que sería lo ideal para evitar nuestra intervención, es posible que la araña decida amputarsela por si misma. Para amputar una pata, utilizaremos unas pinzas con las que sujetaremos la pata o apéndice a poder ser por a altura del fémur, y tiraremos con pequeños tirones confiando en que la araña tire en sentido contrario y ella misma al verse atrapada ayude a cortarla, otra forma es dar un único tirón fuerte y rápido que arrancará la extremidad, este sistema tiene el riesgo de llevarnos también a la araña y provocar más lesiones, por lo que debemos evitar en lo posible hacerlo de esta manera. Esto lo hacemos por que las tarántulas en el trocánter tienen un sistema de autoamputación de patas sin sangrado, desarrollado probablemente para escapar de posibles depredadores, pero este sistema solo funciona a la altura del trocánter, si la pata se amputa por la rótula o tarso el sangrado no parará. Patas arrancadasEjemplar muerto tras reventar su abdomen. Antes de la amputación, se debe evaluar la utilización de otros remedios, como la aplicación de nitrato de plata, o de cianoacrilato, por ejemplo Super Glue (no os traumaticéis, precisamente se inventó originalmente para la sutura de heridas, y se sigue usando). En su defecto tenemos remedios más caseros, pero igualmente efectivos, como pueden ser laca de uñas, papel de fumar o cera caliente, procurando que no queme a nuestro animal, lanzándola desde cierta distancia. Todos estos métodos son relativamente duraderos, especialmente el nitrato y el pegamento, y desaparecerán con la muda. Aclarado el tema sobre los apéndices arrancados, únicamente queda comentar la situación de colmillos rotos; en caso de un sólo colmillo roto, la tarántula podrá seguir su actividad y comer, aunque quizás con alguna dificultad. Pero con dos colmillos arrancados la alimentación será muy complicada, su mejor posibilidad es realizar una muda, pero si mudó hace poco o la perdida de colmillos ha sido provocada precisamente por una mala muda, nos quedan unos duros meses donde deberemos proporcionarle manualmente un puré de comida que pueda absorber sin necesidad de colmillos, hay que confiar en que beba este puré (podemos diluirlo con un poco de agua) y mude pronto para recuperar los comillos, en ejemplares adultos, este proceso puede ser muy lento y largo hasta que la araña pueda volver a mudar. Herida por roce con el sustratoHerida por roce continuado con un sustrato inadecuado. En el caso de ser Machos adultos, los que sufren lesiones en las patas hay que fijarse bien si la hemorragia cesa, si es así no nos preocuparemos, en caso de no cesar la hemoragia intentaremos usar cualquier metodo de los ya nombrados antes de arrancar la pata, siempre y cuando no le afecte a la hora de aparearse, pues de todas formas el macho no volverá a mudar para recuperar la extremidad perdida. En caso de caída desde altura puede darse el caso que la araña se abra el abdomen; en este caso el animal suele morir sin remedio. Aunque cabe la posibilidad, siempre y cuando la herida no sea muy grande, que usando los medios anteriores y un poco de papel de fumar, podamos sellar la herida y darle alguna posibilidad de vivir. Heridas por rozamiento con el sustrato Esto solo ocurre con ejemplares adultos y obesos, aunque si el sustrato es muy abrasivo también puede darse en inmaduros con grandes abdomenes. Patas arrancadasTheraphosa stirmi sufriendo un caso grave del llamado cancer en tarántulas. Por lo general se empezará al pelar el abdomen por la parte ventral, este será nuestro primer aviso de que el roce continuo con el sustrato puede traer problemas, si ignoramos este aviso o no lo descubrimos a tiempo, empezará a irritar la zona y provocará una herida, por lo general no suele ser una herida que supuré hemolinfa, si no que se irá formando una costra que irá creciendo con el tiempo, una vez llegados aquí la solución es más complicada de lo que parece, este roce continuo provoca un pequeño quiste a nivel interno que evita que a la hora de general la nueva piel (debajo de la vieja que vemos), no se pueda generar la parte donde esta la herida, y la herida crezca y pase de muda en muda, pudiendo en algunos casos llevar a la muerte. Si lo descubrimos a tiempo, conseguimos reducir el peso del abdomen para que nuestar araña lo arrastre menos, y cambiamos el sustrato a uno menos abrasivo, con suerte, la herida puede ir remitiendo.Diseases and Treatments in Tarantulas: Common Pathologies and How to Act

Choosing the right substrate is key. It should look natural and help your tarantula dig and keep moisture. Go for options like coconut fiber, sphagnum moss, or a mix of potting soil and sand. These will make a great home for your tarantula.

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